How to Grow Cactus plants in your home

Cactus plants are known as earlier plants as they have a long history. Researchers find out cactus fossils and get that the earliest cactus existed 50 million years ago. Cactus plants are easy to grow as they can tolerate a wide range of conditions. You should not water much to your cactus plant during the dormancy period and also you should not give fertilizer at the time of longer or shorter period of dormancy. You should not try to stimulate the growth of your cactus plant at its rest time.


Scientific classification
Kingdom: Plantae
Clade: Tracheophytes
Clade: Angiosperms
Clade: Eudicots
Order: Caryophyllales
Family: Cactaceae



Cactus rely on their succulence and water-saving crassulacean acid metabolism (CAM), which is detailed in Chapter 1 under Physiology. Without CAM, plants might lose up to 90% of the water they capture through their roots. A recipe for water-saving cactus care isn’t complete unless it includes CAM. To make sugars and proteins, plants mix light energy with gases from the air and water, as well as dissolved chemicals from the soil.

Cactus employ CAM to catch energy from light during the day while also capturing carbon dioxide from the air at night. Sunlight is necessary, yet it can cause sunburn, even in cactus. Cultivated plants, especially in greenhouses, may be exposed to higher light levels than they would be in the wild. Sunburn can be avoided by using shade cloth. Shade fabric is rated by how much light it blocks out: 60% shade cloth blocks 60% of the sun’s beams. For greenhouse conditions, at least 35 percent shade cloth is normally required.

I use a fabric with thin strips of aluminum ribbon that reflect some of the light back into the greenhouse. Light is blocked by other fibers weaved in to keep the strips in place. Because of its reflective characteristics, this sort of cloth not only provides shade but also helps to decrease heat buildup.


It can be hard to water your cactus regularly with well water. To make up for it, I repot frequently, at least once a year. In potting media, soluble salts accumulate and finally reach lethal amounts. Repotting gets rid of the salts and also gets rid of the dead roots that accumulate after a cactus has slept for the winter. Plant diseases thrive in this setting of dead roots. Most plants begin to die in the root zone, where they are not visible until it is too late. Cactus should be repotted frequently for these reasons.

Watering container-grown cactus plants can be done in three ways. Watering from above is commonly done using a rose attached to a hose or a watering container. Waterfalls from the rose in gentle, dreamy streaks. Plants may acquire disfiguring spots as a result of minerals in the irrigation water, which is a downside of this practice. Bottom watering is the second way. Pots are typically left in pans or saucers, with water added to the pan or saucer.

Bottom watering is effective for your cactus, but it has a few drawbacks: each container must be removed from its pan or saucer at least once a month for leaching, and any surplus water not absorbed by the potting medium must be removed before too many hours pass. Watering each plant at the soil line is the third way. This is the way I use, and the only major drawback I’ve discovered is that it takes longer to water. I use this to my advantage by savoring each plant as I give it a drink and keeping a close eye out for any signs of health issues that need to be addressed.

For modest collections, a good-quality watering can will suffice, but as cactus plant numbers grow, a system will be required to improve watering efficiency. A metal watering wand with a trigger to control water flow is attached to the end of this hose. At the soil line, each plant is irrigated. How often should one water their plants? Dip your finger into the soil mixture. The plant does not require water if it comes out with earth particles stuck to it. The soil is dry and water is required if no particles stick to the skin.

During the growing season, I water every 7-10 days, and during dormancy, I water every 4-6 weeks. Cactus are lost more frequently as a result of improper watering than for any other reason. Even though cacti are dormant during the winter, their roots continue to grow. During the winter, growing roots require a small amount of water or they would perish. During their dormant period, cacti will not die from a lack of water, but there will most likely be root loss and stunting that isn’t essential.


Even when grown outdoors, cactus are frequently grown in pots. Container-grown plants are vulnerable not only to their caretaker but also to the container in which they disseminate their roots. After twenty years of trial and error, I’ve determined that plastic pots or clay pots burnt at extremely high temperatures work best. Opaque plastic pots, rather than white or semitransparent ones, should be used. Roots are damaged by the light that goes through a pot wall. Near the inside surface of a white plastic pot, algae can be spotted choking roots.

Some white plastics are also extremely sensitive to ultraviolet radiation, resulting in a short lifespan. They quickly become brittle and fall apart, spilling plants and soil. Cactus that spend the summer outside, where they may be exposed to excessive wetness, thrive well in porous clay containers. Rainwater will leach off accumulated fertilizer salts and hard-water minerals when excess moisture from unexpected rainfall evaporates more quickly. Wintering these same plants in porous clay inside, on the other hand, puts them at risk. Near the inner pot walls, fertilizer and hard-water salts will reach dangerous levels.

As the water carrying the salts migrates into porous walls and evaporates, salts are left behind. Water is followed by roots until they reach the container walls. Plants won’t die, but they won’t live as long as they could or should in better pots. More lately, I’ve utilized a two-layer thermoformed pot. Polystyrene coextrusion creates a container with a dark inner layer to protect roots from light and a brightly colored exterior layer. Because the pots’ heavier inner black layer is made of recycled, post-consumer plastics, they are environmentally beneficial.

The outer layer, which is thinner, is made of modern plastic. Due to the use of recycled materials, these pots can be purchased for around 10% cheaper than solid-color pots. For a long time, black has been thought to be the ideal color for root protection and development. Now you may have the best of both worlds: color on the exterior to attract attention, and black on the interior to protect the roots. Cactus Plants are safer in deep pots than in shallow ones. Water moves more quickly through a deep pot due to gravity.

A deep pot allows for better drainage, resulting in a healthier environment for plant roots. Using an electric drill to drill more holes in the bottom of plastic pots is a simple solution to add more drainage holes. To plastic pots, I normally drill at least four to six new holes. The exception is the modern thermoformed pots.

They provide good drainage, and I leave them alone. A hammer and a star drill bit can be used to add more holes to clay or ironstone pots. Learning how hard to tap the bit with the hammer takes some experience. To give a cushion for the hammer blows, I’ve found that turning the pot upside down on a soft grassy surface helps.

Potting Media

Cacti’s basic need for soil is perhaps the most misunderstood. Plants are unable to get up and leave an unfavorable environment, whereas animals can. Consider soil to be a blanket that separates the rock from the sky. The majority of soils are composed of 95 percent pulverized rock and 5% organic material. Bacteria, fungi, and protozoa, as well as larger organisms, abound.

Most soils have about half of their volume made up of spaces between soil particles. This is where air and water are stored. Water will flow through soil due to gravity’s pull, but each soil particle will be covered in a multiple-layer coating. Roots are able to tap into an elaborate storehouse. Gravity and evaporation will eventually drain the water away, but only to the extent that it remains.

Plants require both air and water to survive. Air trapped in the same soil spaces that hold water provides oxygen to roots. The smaller the particles, the smaller the air and water spaces will be. In addition, confined spaces are more likely to be filled with water rather than air. A plant would be saved from dying of thirst in such soil, but it would die of suffocation.

It’s simple to add solids to a mixture, but how do you incorporate air? Use light, chunky materials like perlite or pumice. This material has numerous tiny cavities that trap and hold air and does not pack. An air-trapping substance should make up at least half of the mixture. Perlite should be horticultural grade with small particles. When incorporating it into the mix, wear a mask. I prefer coarse pumice to perlite, but in some areas, it may be difficult to find.

A high-quality commercial soilless mix should be included in the potting medium, along with an air-trapping substance and a water reservoir. These mixes include Canadian peat moss, pine bark, coir, and composted peanut hulls, as well as rock wool in some cases. This organic material is not used as plant food, but rather to improve air and water retention, reduce compaction, and improve the structure of the soil.


Only throughout the growing season is nutrition provided. When plants are resting, whether in the winter or summer, it is critical that no growth stimulation be provided. I use a liquid fertilizer after becoming tired of chipping away at the pebbles my granular fertilizers had become since the previous growing season, no matter how securely I sealed the containers.

It is preferable to purchase a high-end product that has been scientifically validated. More than ten essential ingredients are required for the efficient growth of container-grown plants. Calcium nitrate, potassium nitrate, monobasic ammonium phosphate, magnesium nitrate, and, if possible, a mix of soluble trace elements are used to make good fertilizers. Nitrogen in fertilizer is commonly a mixture of nitrate (NO3) and ammonium (NH4) (NH). Too much of the improper kind of nitrogen can lead to soft growth, making plants more susceptible to disease.

If the label specifies that the recipe is for soilless mixtures, that’s a plus. The numbers on a plant food label are an international code that represents the proportions of three essential ingredients required for growth. The first number is nitrogen, which is used to produce tissues like stems and leaves. The second number is phosphorus, which is involved in the development of healthy root systems, flowering, and seed production.

Phosphorus is usually obtained from superphosphate. Potassium, which enhances plant tolerance to stress and disease, is the third element. Potassium is usually obtained from potash. 5 parts nitrogen, 10 parts phosphorus, and 5 parts potassium are found in a fertilizer labeled 5-10-5. Minor components known as trace elements should be added to these big elements. They’re termed minors not because they’re insignificant, but because they’re only needed in little amounts.

They are, nonetheless, necessary for plant health. Magnesium, iron, manganese, copper, zinc, boron, and molybdenum are all trace elements. Many newer, more expensive fertilizers have these trace elements in a soluble sulfated form that won’t precipitate out and be lost. Look for a product that contains buffers to aid with soil pH management. When choosing a fertilizer, look for one that contains sulfur.

Plants need irrigation water for sulfur, yet most water is either sulfur-deficient or sulfur-rich. Slow-growing plants, such as cactus, may tolerate sulfur levels of 10-20 parts per million; most plants require 20-30 parts per million. Only about 20% of the United States’ water supply includes sulfur in sufficient proportions for healthy plants. Soilless mixes have a very low sulfur content. When gypsum or superphosphate are applied to a soil mix, they give a rapid repair, but they only last a few weeks because the sulfate ions are leached out.

Buy elemental sulfur sparingly because it will cause more harm than good. Elemental sulfur causes more harm than good, dramatically lowering soil pH and causing plant damage or death. If you have concerns about the sulfur content of your water, submit a sample to a testing laboratory or inquire with your water district’s supplier. Sulfur insufficiency in cactus is difficult to diagnose because the symptom, stunted development, is identical to that of nitrogen deficit.

Plant nutrients are soluble salts that can build up in potting soil until it becomes toxic. Leaching is used to remove the soluble salt accumulation. With each watering, leaching should be done. Pour enough water into the pot to allow it to drain from the bottom. This entails putting 15-20% more water in the container than it can hold. The additional water carries away the excess soluble salts. Cactus should be reported even if they are frequently leached.

Propagation Techniques of Cactus

Propagation by seeds

Providing a wet but not saturated potting medium for seeds to germinate and grow into is the best approach for germinating seeds. Seeds only require a small amount of water to germinate. They must not dry out after being watered, else germination will be delayed or the seed may die. Because cactus seeds have a huge surface area and a small volume, they dry quickly. Because moisture changes are damaging during this essential phase, a closed atmosphere is permitted during germination.

One of the most crucial times in a cactus’ life is the first week following germination. Root growth will be stifled and only top growth will occur if the soil is excessively damp when roots emerge. Proper root growth is required to support top growth. Seed flat covers should be removed 7-10 days after germination. Condensing moisture on the cover drops down on the newly emerged seedlings, causing damping-off and poor root growth. Temperature, in addition to moisture, is a critical element.

cactus seeds

Excessive heat promotes top growth but inhibits root development. The entire plant will cease growing if the temperature becomes too high. As a result, seedlings that are less than a month old should not be brought to the greenhouse and exposed to excessive air temperatures. Fertilizers should not be used until seedlings are established and at least a few weeks old, with few exceptions. The seed contains all of the sustenance they will require throughout this time. For as long as feasible, fungicides and insecticides should be avoided.

Low light levels are sufficient for germination, but greater light levels are required for optimal growth once seedlings have been established. High light levels will result in a shorter, tougher plant, while higher temperatures may cause growth to stop. If you have a greenhouse, don’t be hesitant to bring seedlings in after they’ve been in the ground for a few months. Start them out in a shady place until they’ve gotten used to the higher temps, and then gradually bring them out to areas with more light.

Propagation by Cutting

Cuttings can also be used to grow Cactus. Before placing the cuttings in potting media for rooting, they should be let to air dry for several weeks. Before the incision is buried in moist soil, a thin protective callus layer forms, allowing the cut to begin healing. The best cuttings are made from whole stems of new growth.


Cactus with good growing techniques are less appealing to six- and eight-legged bugs. Plants that are weak and inefficient are more susceptible to pests. Control is more important to successful growers than cure. The term “pest control” has to be replaced by “pest management.” This is accomplished by diligent observation to identify pests and estimate their populations. Flying insects will be caught by strategically placed yellow and blue sticky cards, and crawlers will be found with the use of a decent magnifying glass.

Before joining the rest of the collection, any new plants should be segregated. Detecting pest problems normally takes three weeks. The individual plants can be addressed if problems are discovered. Before exiting isolation, new plants should be repotted to remove any potentially infected soil.


There are hundreds of types of thrips, but they all harm cactus in the same way. Thrips feed by scraping and rasping delicate stem surfaces, but pollen is their preferred diet. The best approach to find thrips is to tap or blow on a bloom. Thrip infected flowers of cactus will have a flurry of activity as the fast-moving insects hurry from pollen sacs to the petal’s edge. They’ll then swing over the side to find a hiding spot beneath it. Blotches or streaks of pollen grains on flowers, as well as malformed and undersized blossoms, are further indicators.

The epidermis of the cactus will be delicately mottled with numerous tiny yellow spots. On flowers, there may be a sprinkling of tiny black specks, which are thrip feces. Early discovery is crucial for thrip management. Warm temperatures and little humidity are ideal for thrips. When temperatures reach 90°F (32°C), they cause the most damage. Many thrips species pupate in soil for a portion of their lives, and I like the precision of applying a granular systemic insecticide to the soil.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are the most frequent pests of indoor-grown plants like Cactus. Mite-infested plants will have little yellow stains where the mites have sucked the plant fluids. Fine webbing on plant tops or between spines may appear in strong infestations. Plants that have been severely harmed will most likely scar with a light tan to brown callus. Mites are so little that they may float in the breeze. They can even be brought inside on clothing or pets’ coats.

spider mites on cactus

They are about the size of a pinhead and are best discovered using a 10X lens. The two-spotted mite is the most prevalent species. It features two dark patches, one on each shoulder, and is yellowish-brown to greenish in color. The greater the markings, the older the mite.


Mealybugs are scale insects that are around 0.20-0.30 inches long and resemble tiny woodlice. These are much harmful to your cactus plants. They are waterproofed and resistant to several water-based insecticides thanks to a fluffy wax coating. Mealybug nests are little masses of fuzzy, cotton-like substance hidden in cracks and crevices of plants and their surroundings. Nests can be found on spines, tubercles, and dead flowers, among other places. Some mealybugs prefer to reside amid roots in the soil, while others prefer to live on plant surfaces in the open.

Reinfection can occur if eggs and a few stray adults are found in regions away from cactus plants. Due to the fact that male mealybugs have wings and can fly, an infestation can spread quickly. Control is required rather than cure. I like to use a systemic insecticide to control mealybugs, which will kill any soil dwellers as well as those located on the surface. Insecticides are very harmful and should only be used with extreme caution.

Survivor mealybugs will grow resistant to the same insecticide if it is used repeatedly. Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, an Australian black ladybug beetle, is marketed as a biological control for mealybugs. Cryptolaemus did not operate well on cacti because the spines made it difficult for them to reach their prey.

Fungus Gnats

Fungus gnats are little brown to black flies that fly about plants in the atmosphere. In addition to their color, fungus gnats can be identified from whiteflies by their habits. Although fungus gnats do not rest as much as whiteflies, sticky yellow cards are a useful method to spot an infestation. A few fungus gnats can be observed emerging from the dirt upon closer inspection. Adults do not eat or harm plants, but larvae can cause significant damage.

fungus gnats on cactus

Larval forms resemble small worms and dwell in the top 2 inches (5 cm) of the potting medium. They wriggle around in the dirt, eating organic stuff such as plant roots. Root trimming has little effect on large plants with complex root networks, but it can be disastrous for seedlings. In just a few weeks, fungus gnats can completely destroy a seed flat. Seedlings that are not killed will grow in a stunted manner. An insecticidal soil drench, which addresses the problem at the source of plant harm, provides the best treatment.


Pesticides for Cactus

Spraying should be done with the smallest possible droplet size. Replace a sprayer if it can’t deliver a fine spray. The coverage of a spray improves eightfold when the droplet size is halved, according to research. A drop of liquid spread appropriately covers 0.3 inch2 (2 cm2), while the same amount of liquid supplied as a fine aerosol covers up to 10 inch2 (65 cm2). Spraying as a fine mist will cover more areas with less pesticide, not only lowering health risks and saving money but also improving penetration into cracks and crevices.

The skin should be covered when spraying. Put on a cap, mask, long-sleeved shirt, and full-length pants. When spraying or applying solid pesticides, hands should be covered with rubber gloves. Disposable gloves and masks are available at pharmacies at a reasonable price. Other people, pets, and plants are not protected, even though you are. Use caution and try to pollute the environment as little as possible.

To dilute chemicals, use distilled water or water cleaned through reverse osmosis when mixing sprays for your cactus. Many insecticides are destroyed before they are sprayed by hard water with an incorrect pH. Organophosphates and carbamates, for example, are hydrolyzed when mixed with alkaline water, leaving them ineffectual as pesticides.